Sample state without leaving the city

August 7, 2008

By Audrey Van Buskirk
Portland Tribune

Here’s what the August issue of Bon Appetit magazine says about the Bite of Oregon: “Get a taste of the Pacific Northwest: Dishes like Dungeness crab cakes and salmon corn chowder will be presented by favorite local restaurants such as Bluefish Bistro and North 45.”

Putting aside the irritation of equating Oregon’s complex and nuanced food culture with crab cakes, a classic Maryland dish — Bluefish Bistro? And isn’t North 45 a bar?

Actually, Bluefish Bistro is a Bend restaurant that isn’t in the Bite, but these little-known names on the local food scene are indicative of a changed direction for the popular 25-year-old food fest.

Where once it was called the Bite of Portland and featured mainly familiar faces from the Portland restaurant scene, the three-day event now aims to provide a showcase of restaurants, wineries and breweries from Pendleton to Pacific City, hence the new, more-inclusive name.

Among this year’s 23 restaurants (interestingly, the same number of spots they had in Year One) are Foley’s Station from La Grande (serving grilled halibut pang pao lettuce cups), Stetson’s House of Prime of Pendleton (offering hog wild wings) and Fireside Red in Bend (selling bacon-wrapped dates and more).

But rather than just a place to pack yourself with the state’s culinary treasures, the event, which should draw about 70,000 visitors, offers a range of noneating attractions including an Iron Chef competition, celebrity chef demonstrations and signings, and live music and other entertainment (see www.biteoforegon.com for complete lineup and schedule).

The four-year-old Iron Chef competition has had only one winner so far: Daniel Mondok, formerly of Carlyle and now chef-owner of the acclaimed Sel Gris (1852 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.). He has stepped down this year, guaranteeing a different champion.

Four regional semifinalists will face off Friday, Aug. 8, with the winners advancing to the finals Saturday, Aug. 9. Cheer on Portland’s entrant David Anderson of Vindalho (2038 S.E. Clinton St.) as he faces off with Neil Clooney of Ashland’s Dragonfly Cafe and Gardens (7:30 p.m. Aug. 8).

Rather than bringing in a national musical act, this year the Bite of Oregon will host a celebrity of the food world — acclaimed chef Cat Cora from the Food Network. Cora, the first female Iron Chef America winner, will emcee the Iron Chef finals and do several cooking demonstrations and book signings.

A musical highlight, especially for Portlanders who can remember some of the long-gone restaurants from the festival’s early days like Cajun Cafe and Casa U-Betcha, should be the appearance of the Crazy 8’s (9:30 p.m. Friday, Aug. 8). They also performed at the Bite’s inaugural event.

Adults can taste (and purchase) the wares of 26 wineries from around the state. New this year is an Oregon-brewed beer garden (perfect if you missed the Oregon Brewers Festival a few weeks ago) with nearly two dozen beers from breweries from around the state including Standing Stone Brewing Co. of Ashland, Golden Valley Brewing Co. of McMinnville, Terminal Gravity Brewing Co. of Enterprise, and Pelican Brewery of Pacific City.

With gas prices being what they are this may not be the year to make a driving tour around Oregon, but the Bite should give you a taste of what you’re missing. Proceeds benefit the Special Olympics.

11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday, Aug. 8-10, Gov. Tom McCall Waterfront Park, 1020 S.W. Naito Parkway, $7, children under 12 free, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday $5.

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